On the Ground in Sonora, Mexico (Noticias Del Campo)


Fall Recon Trip

Green is the word that comes to mind this year. Emerald madness everywhere! Finally, after a dozen years, the heavens are bursting and bringing the countryside back to life. Huge purple and yellow Amapa trees are in full bloom early, and water is flowing in all the arroyos as little mini waterfalls tumble over boulders in side canyons. Both reservoirs (Huites and Mocuzari) are almost full. Huites, near Choix (our first day desination on our seven-day loop), is within three feet of the high water mark.

With the heavy summer rains some of the roads have blown out pretty bad and are in rough shape. The back way to Choix (our normal route) has eroded to single track-like conditions in some places, with boulders the size of beach balls and ruts deep enough to rival the real Copper Canyon. Steve and I headed out for a recon trip last week and found ourselves wondering the first day out when it was going to be over. We pushed ahead with the thought of our new mantra spinning in our heads “momentum is your friend, momentum is your friend.” That and the thought of a good bone soaking at the hot springs in Aguas Calientes kept us afloat.

Arriving in the town of Choix we settled in for the evening with barbequed chicken and chats with old friends. Choix is always a refreshing reminder of what a true Mexican town is like. I am always the only gringo and that oddity makes things interesting. Little shops burst with activity, bubbling over with the uniqueness of Mexico.

Heading out of Choix early the next morning to catch the ferry and cross Lake Huites, our day’s mission: to check out new roads, get more history on the area, make some new friends and road contacts, and see what’s up with that little ferry boat since the water levels have changed so dramatically with the summer rains. We arrive at the landing and wait for almost two hours with twenty or so Mexican mountain locals. Questions about road conditions, the military, mining exploration, etc. dominate the conversation. Offerings of “Lechugilla”, a locally made mountain booze, seals our new friendships as we load up to cross the lake. The ferry ride was a mixed bag of tranquil and wild west crazy. Tightly squeezed on the little ferry: a two-ton cattle truck filled with a couple of Mexican families, our two well-packed bikes, and a bashed up Ford explorer with four young men, glassy-eyed and out of their minds drunk, full of “Macho” attitude firing shots into the air from a semi-automatic 38 special. It’s always an adventure.

After a safe landing onto the north shore we decided to sit tight awhile and let the Explorer full of drunk, well-armed “locos” blast up the arroyo ahead of us, never to be seen again. We are pleasantly surprised to find that the road to La Reforma (an old mining town) is in good shape, recently bladed by a Canadian mining company doing gold exploration. The ride along the arroyo in a deep canyon to La Reforma is beautiful. Water is flowing everywhere. Climbing out of the canyon in the early afternoon we wind our way up 4000 feet and are overwhelmed with fantastic views of the canyons and valleys below. We arrive in La Juachara (a very small town about halfway between Choix and Cerocahui) and settle in for the night with newfound friends, homemade hot bean soup, and fresh tortillas. The locals tell us of the possibility of a gold mine opening up, and a new road from La Reforma to Sierita.

As Steve and I head back to Alamos, we are already making plans for another recon adventure. We’ve been told that a new bridge has been built over the Rio Fuerte connecting Tubares, Satevo and Batopilas to Choix. Always looking for an excuse for another adventure we will be back soon exploring this new route.

After twenty-plus years of bumming around the back-country in Mexico, I am happy to say this is world class fun and I still love it!

Taking a break in an arroyo.

Waiting for the ferry and making some friends.

Relaxing at the hot springs with the locals.